Trying to relive Kolkata – from Hatibagan to Dalhousie via Shyambazar

After my tour of Kolkata from Hatibagan to Esplanade, I decided to travel in the opposite direction – namely, from Hatibagan to Dalhousie Square via Shyambazar. Since I had spent a portion of my childhood in the Shyambazar area, this trip brought back many fond memories. Since the metro rail had not disturbed the surroundings, the locality maintained the old life charms but the cinema halls that used to once bustle with activities were relics. The footpaths were occupied by hawkers and pedestrians had to use the roads. Moreover, the once busy Cornwallis Street had been converted to a one way street to ease the flow of traffic. Since there was no possibility of widening of the road, making it one-way was the best solution.
The tram depot was still intact and trams did ply – if only the tram routes had been kept alive, it would have been a boon to the commuters but, the trams plied only in a few selected routes.
When I came to the famous five-point crossing at Shyambazar, I looked around and saw the statue of Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose at the center of the crossing, he was on horseback.
I took a left turn to Bhupen Bose Avenue and boarded a bus that was to go to Dalhousie Square – the place where most of the offices of the government, the eastern railway and the Police Headquarters at Lalbazar were located.
It was a relatively smooth ride through Chittaranjan Avenue till the rear portion of the Medical College when the bus encountered a jam and, after waiting for a while, the bus driver decided to take a diversion that took the bus to a lane next to the gate of Lalbazar. Then it went ahead and parked in the terminus where I got down and began the long walk to Esplanade. I passed through the portals of the Great Eastern Hotel and, keeping the Governor’s House on my right, I took the turning towards K C Das – the brand famous for its Rosogollas. I did peep in but discovered that the interiors had changed completely.
Finally, I crossed over to the Metro cinema on Chowringhee Road – this cinema house was another landmark of Kolkata and it was practically in ruins. The pavement was occupied by hawkers who sold anything under the sun from foreign scents and sunglasses to foreign chocolates and wristwatches. And then there were the women who offered themselves to others to earn a living – they solicited customers openly at the bus stands through their touts.
I discovered that prosperity brings with it hordes of other associated problems that have to be accepted as a fallout of changes.

On the streets of Kolkata – from Hatibagan to Esplanade

It was during my trip to Kolkata in 2010 that I decided to take a look at the Kolkata that I had left way back in the 1960s. A new look Kolkata had been born through the metro rail and there were immense changes that it had ushered in. The surroundings had been affected directly by the underground train service. Not only had the changes happened at the ground level to accommodate modern style buildings but, with the introduction of flyovers the whole of Kolkata took on a brand new look.
Since the metro rail became the lifeline of the city, it was but natural that the development also follow the metro – hence, at the stations people emerged from the underground to meet the hawkers who had laid out their wares near the exit points.
However, I wanted to take in that Kolkata that had escaped the fangs of development courtesy metro rail and, for this, I chose Hatibagan – a huge market place of North Kolkata. This market used to be one where people would come on Sundays to buy pets like parrots and rabbits – this market for pets was open only on Sundays.
I was staying with my relatives in Salt Lake and took directions from them of the best way to reach Hatibagan. Yes, there was a private bus that would pass through Hatibagan – so, without hesitation, I set out on my Mission Hatibagan. I wanted to bring back old memories and walk down the streets trying to compare how the city has changed. When I alighted at my destination, I found it was still there but had become much more crowded – it was difficult to make my way through the multitude of men, women and children without squeezing past them. I did that and ignored their rude glances and their remarks did not quite reach my ears.
Anyway, I took the left turn and came upon the Star Theater – it had burnt down but was renovated and started under a new management. And, as I trudged along the Bidhan Sarani, I saw the same old buildings on either side – the Scottish Church College, the Hedua swimming pool, the Bethune College. Metro Rail had not made any outward difference to this part of Kolkata. Then after crossing the Vivekananda Road, I entered the world of books – the outlets of well-known publishers were still there but they wore a tired look.
When I arrived at College Street I decided to take a break and drop by the famous restaurant named Anadi Cabin that used to be famous for its Moglai parathas – alas, the marble topped tables and wooden benches were still there but they did not serve Moglai parathas any longer. The waiter apologized and explained that the world had changed and had shifted gears to the world of noodles.
I therefore took whatever was on offer and peeped into the grand old Coffee House. It was unlike its normal self and the charm of old was missing. After a cup of coffee, I proceeded down College Street, crossed the rows of book stalls that sold only old books and the Presidency College and then on to the College Square, bang opposite the Kolkata University. The shops remained as did the Calcutta Medical College and when I reached Bowbazar Street, it revived many old memories.
By then, my legs were tired so I now took a bus to Esplanade and went to Ralli’s for light refreshments – it was not the Ralli that I knew, here also the winds of change had made inroads with a new set of customers and waiters. I then took a metro ride to Kalighat and returned back to Salt Lake via Jadavpur because there was a direct bus available and I would be able to get an empty seat.