On the streets of Kolkata – from Hatibagan to Esplanade

It was during my trip to Kolkata in 2010 that I decided to take a look at the Kolkata that I had left way back in the 1960s. A new look Kolkata had been born through the metro rail and there were immense changes that it had ushered in. The surroundings had been affected directly by the underground train service. Not only had the changes happened at the ground level to accommodate modern style buildings but, with the introduction of flyovers the whole of Kolkata took on a brand new look.
Since the metro rail became the lifeline of the city, it was but natural that the development also follow the metro – hence, at the stations people emerged from the underground to meet the hawkers who had laid out their wares near the exit points.
However, I wanted to take in that Kolkata that had escaped the fangs of development courtesy metro rail and, for this, I chose Hatibagan – a huge market place of North Kolkata. This market used to be one where people would come on Sundays to buy pets like parrots and rabbits – this market for pets was open only on Sundays.
I was staying with my relatives in Salt Lake and took directions from them of the best way to reach Hatibagan. Yes, there was a private bus that would pass through Hatibagan – so, without hesitation, I set out on my Mission Hatibagan. I wanted to bring back old memories and walk down the streets trying to compare how the city has changed. When I alighted at my destination, I found it was still there but had become much more crowded – it was difficult to make my way through the multitude of men, women and children without squeezing past them. I did that and ignored their rude glances and their remarks did not quite reach my ears.
Anyway, I took the left turn and came upon the Star Theater – it had burnt down but was renovated and started under a new management. And, as I trudged along the Bidhan Sarani, I saw the same old buildings on either side – the Scottish Church College, the Hedua swimming pool, the Bethune College. Metro Rail had not made any outward difference to this part of Kolkata. Then after crossing the Vivekananda Road, I entered the world of books – the outlets of well-known publishers were still there but they wore a tired look.
When I arrived at College Street I decided to take a break and drop by the famous restaurant named Anadi Cabin that used to be famous for its Moglai parathas – alas, the marble topped tables and wooden benches were still there but they did not serve Moglai parathas any longer. The waiter apologized and explained that the world had changed and had shifted gears to the world of noodles.
I therefore took whatever was on offer and peeped into the grand old Coffee House. It was unlike its normal self and the charm of old was missing. After a cup of coffee, I proceeded down College Street, crossed the rows of book stalls that sold only old books and the Presidency College and then on to the College Square, bang opposite the Kolkata University. The shops remained as did the Calcutta Medical College and when I reached Bowbazar Street, it revived many old memories.
By then, my legs were tired so I now took a bus to Esplanade and went to Ralli’s for light refreshments – it was not the Ralli that I knew, here also the winds of change had made inroads with a new set of customers and waiters. I then took a metro ride to Kalighat and returned back to Salt Lake via Jadavpur because there was a direct bus available and I would be able to get an empty seat.