Sunday, November 16, 2014

Globules of ecstasy known as mihidana and darbesh


Mihidana is a sweet that is found only in Bengal - mihi in Bengali means ‘fine’ and dana means ‘grain’ and mihidana literally translates into ‘fine grains’. The process of preparation starts with a batter of besan and water. Besan is gram ground to fine powdery texture. A batter of besan is passed through a sieve into a pot of boiling oil. The holes in the sieve are tiny and the batter falls into the boiling oil drop by drop! These are then fried to obtain the required color and then removed from the boiling oil and transferred to a pot of syrup made of sugar. Within a few minutes, these are again moved and heaped on to a large flat wooden tray for drying. Finally, dried fruits and flavoring agent like nutmeg powder are added after which the mixture is ready for the artists touch! By the deft movement of the palm and fingers, the artists convert this mass into round balls simultaneously arranging them on trays for the final garnishing with chopped pistachios and kish-mish.
The product belongs to the family of pulse known as ‘chhola’ (or gram) which is found in abundance in all parts of the country. Also known as ‘chana’, it is extensively used in various delectable preparations of both the sweet and the sour categories. For these preparation the grams are ground into powder called ‘besan’ which transforms into beautiful artistic forms once they pass through the experienced hands of the experts.
At one time, ready-made mihidana mix was a rage in Calcutta. One pouch contained the tiny globules (similar to homeopathic globules) whilst the second one had the powdered sugar. All one had to do to have a mouthwatering dish was to dissolve the powdered sugar in water, bring it to boil and add the ingredients of the accompanying pouch – and, presto! Tiny drops of ecstasy were ready for serving.
Incidentally, mihidana and sitabhog are items unique to Burdwan and are its pride – efforts have now been undertaken to take it to the global consumer with suitable packaging to ensure long term preservation.
Another sweet made of besan is the darbesh. To make these, the holes in the sieve are of a larger diameter and the process is similar to that explained earlier except that color plays a significant role. Three colors are popular – red, yellow and green. Boondies are prepared in each of these colors separately, allowed to absorb the sweetness of the syrup separately and are mixed with dry fruits and flavoring agent on the flat wooden tray. Since the consistency of the syrup is lighter, penetration into each globule is more. In areas other than Bengal, coloring is absent and the boondies are drier. The finished product, in these cases, is called Boondi-ki-Laddoo.
There is a non-sweet variant of boondies also – for this, salt and red chili powder is mixed in the batter and the boondies are not soaked in syrup but are preserved dry for subsequent use in raitas as required. Boondie based raita garnished with chopped coriander leaves and green chilies are something one can seldom refuse!

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